On September 12th, we departed the Izu Peninsula early in the morning and visited Nihonji Temple on Mount Nokogiri in the Boso Peninsula of Chiba.

This temple was founded 1,300 years ago by Gyōki. Buddhist thought originating in India was inherited in China’s Tang Dynasty, and Gyōki spread it throughout Japan. A large Bodhi tree, grown from a sapling brought from the Mahabodhi Temple, thrives at the temple.

This temple, repeatedly rebuilt after enduring the ravages of war, has been largely reconstructed in recent years. We were led into a beautiful, bright study room, where an old, weathered hanging scroll depicting Kanzan and Jittoku  left a lasting impression.

Buddhism took root during the Heian period, flourishing through the efforts of Saichō and Kūkai. However, by the late Heian era, the rise of manor lords led to a period of war. This temple was rebuilt by Minamoto no Yoritomo, only to be ravaged again by the wars of the Nanboku-chō period. It was restored by Ashikaga Takauji, but then plunged into the Warring States period. Finally, in the mid-Edo period, the Great Buddha was carved into the rock, and a group of 1,500 arhats was created, transforming it into a pilgrimage site akin to a Buddhist Disneyland. Today, you can make the pilgrimage by hiking Mt. Nokogiri.

The main hall was recently rebuilt during the COVID-19 pandemic and is brand new, with ceiling paintings also completed just a few years ago.

Stepping into the garden, the rear mountain of Nihonji Temple radiates an air of dignity, making one keenly aware that this sacred place is protected by the mountain’s spiritual essence. The stupa housing the Buddha’s relics is also new and beautiful.

The cycad planted by Minamoto no Yoritomo still exists today, twisting like a dragon’s neck.

Guided by the chief priest, we strolled around the grounds until the main Buddha statue, the Medicine Buddha, came into view. This Buddha saves people from illness and is the deity of medicine. Suddenly, the clear blue sky clouded over, and the Dragon God began to make it rain. The rain grew heavier and heavier, but it felt refreshing in the muggy heat.

We returned to the study hall and spent about an hour chatting until the rain stopped.

It was a day spent journeying through 1,300 years of history, reaffirming the strength of the Japanese people’s faith.